Exfoliation Tips From an Expert

The second and most important step to proper skin care is exfoliation, which is also the one step done most incorrectly. The process of exfoliation removes and prevents the build up of dead skin cells and debris, also known as keratin. The buildup of the keratin can clog pores and prevent the skin from growing in a healthy way.

Some common skin conditions attributed to keratin build up are: acne, oily skin, sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and keratosis polaris.

Skin Layer Brakedown
The skin can be broken down into 3 basic layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous tissue. For simplification, I will focus on the epidermis and the dermis, since these two basic skin layers are most important to exfoliation.

As we age our skin's natural response is for the epidermis to thicken. Since the skin can only be so thick a response to the epidermis thickening is for the dermis to thin. The epidermis is comprised on mostly dead skin cells and as they build up on the surface of the skin they can cause a many of skin issues.

The dermis is where healthy cells are made. As new skin cells mature they are pushed towards the surface until they die and add to the epidermis. I like to think of the dermis as the 'factory' of the skin. A healthy dermis is a productive dermis and one able to defend itself from invaders, such as bacteria.

Not only will proper exfoliation ensure a healthy dermis, but it will turn back the clock on aging.

Proper, daily exfoliation can rejuvenate the skin leaving it soft, supple, and radiant. For effective exfoliation, skin stimulation, and rejuvenation to occur, a chemical or mechanical technique is necessary.

Physical Exfoliation
Physical exfoliation involves a mechanical tool, such as a razor, to scrape off the keratin layer. A popular myth in skin care is that exfoliation can occur with products that contain gentle exfoliants such as micro beads, micro spheres, “scrubs”. These products have been shown to be detrimental to achieving healthy skin. If used frequently over a period of time, micro tears and inflammation will develop and persist, which may cause the skin to have an appearance of accelerated aging.

Chemical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliation is synonymous with chemical peels. Chemical peels dissolve the keratin layer in contrast to scraping it off, as with physical exfoliation. There are a wide range of chemical peels on the market in relation to strength. A chemical peel's strength is rated on a pH scale, which is basically a measure of acidity. A good chemical peel will have a pH of 2-3. Physician's use a pH of 2 for their peels, while Esthetician's use a pH of 3. Most of the chemical exfoliants on the market are from 4-5 and is not strong enough to be beneficial. Please refer to the figure below to get an idea of chemical exfoliant pH ranges.

Proper exfoliation has many benefits. Some are listed below:
--Rejuvenates the skin
--Achieve more radiant and beautiful skin
--Decreases oil production
--Decreases acne breakouts
--Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
--Decreases pore size
--Decreases sticky cells
--Increases collagen and elastin production
--Increases healthy cell production
--Brings balance back to the skin
--Increases natural protection from the environment
--Reduces skin sensetivity

Drawbacks to Exfoliation
In contrast to all the benefits of exfoliation, the process does have some drawbacks. One of the main drawbacks of exfoliation is painful inflammation and redness similar to sunburn. However, this only lasts a few days and will subside as the keratin layer flakes off leaving the skin underneath soft, supple, rejuvenated, and radiant. Exfoliation done with a Physician or with an Esthetician can only be done 1-2 times per month because of the significant heal time. Another minor drawback of exfoliation is dryness. As the keratin layer is removed, water evaporation from the surface of the skin will increase, so it is imperative to moisturize.

The Solution
Since the only major drawback of exfoliation is painful inflammation and redness, the addition of a powerful anti-inflammatory agent is crucial in reducing the negative effects of exfoliation. The only product currently on the market able to achieve all the benefits of exfoliation, without the inflammation, or redness, is called EX3 by TréSkinRX. EX3 combines the power of glycolic acid with the therapeutic effects of pharmaceutical grade aloe. With the addition of skin rejuvenating vitamins and minerals, this product will leave your skin soft, supple, rejuvenated, and radiant without any inflammation.

EX3 is comprised of the following key ingredients; remember these when searching for an exfoliant:

• Pharmaceutical grade aloe vera (An anti-inflammatory agent with the ability to heal and soothe; Absorbs into skin, carrying other ingredients with it; Antimicrobial; Antiseptic; Must be the first ingredient)

• L-ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) (Antioxidant; Collagen stimulant; Must be encapsulated to avoid breaking down in the exfoliant)

• Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E) (Antioxidant; Essential for the production of collagen and elastin)

• Glycolic Acid (Exfoliant; Removes keratin layer)

• Green Tea Leaf Extract (A stimulant; Powerful antioxidant; Antibacterial; Anti-inflammatory)

• Pantothenol (Changes to pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) in skin; Reduces pore size and fights acne; Beneficial for hair)

• Allantoin (Heals wounds and skin ulcers; Stimulates the growth of healthy tissue)

• Retinol (Vitamin A) (Regulates keratin)

• Vitamin D3 (Regulates keratin; Helps improve skin texture and firmness)

After you have exfoliated, move on to step three - Moisturizing.
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This post was edited by Ashley Miller